3rd & 4th day of Jakarta FashionWeek

Waiting to get my picture taken at imigrasi, I thought it would be a good idea to start writing my second post about the Jakarta FashionWeek 2017.
On Monday 24 October I started my fashion-week-day with checking out the FashionLink upstairs in the mall. A floor filled with small booths where designers sell their fashion. Nice to have a closer look at some of the fashion.

Batik Chic booth at FashionLink

First show that I attended was to my surprise inspired by Borneo. The collection by Albert Yanuar presented by body wash GIV was very stylish. Beautiful Kalimantan patterns on white and black based dresses. Of course all were printed textiles, but the finishing of the pieces was with a good eye for detail.

'Algarry' by Albert Yanuar

The next show I really liked on my third JFW day was a collaboration of Lekat and British fashion designer Billie Jacobina. Lekat is a brand that makes a connection with Indonesian culture through a wide range of textiles and motifs. The texture of the textiles used in this specific show were really good. Rough and thick and at the same time soft and playful. Also the choose of models was different. It were not only skinny giants on the catwalk which makes it easier to imagine wearing the clothes yourself.

Lekat x Billie Jacobina

The last nice show of the day was of Purana. Flowy elegant dresses. The designs were simpel, yet the colours very brave. The traditional hats with braids made from ribbons were a nice touch.

Purana

The next day, Tuesday 25 October, started with a very over the top show called "The Golden Queen". Well actually all shows presented by Abineri Ang were very over the top. Anyway, I could appreciate the extravaganza, but some dresses were just impossible to move in for the models. Everyone was holding their breath when they needed to make the turn at the end of the catwalk.

In between shows I headed out to visit the showroom of Populo Batik. The brand is best known for their Star Wars Batik Cap collection (see my previous post 

'New stuff, cheap stuff, mass production stuff & thrown away stuff'). The showroom is around the corner so I could actually walk there, unique for Jakarta!

The clothing by Populo Batik is very modern and stylish. I think in Jakarta and any other big city people will really like it. The motifs in white contrast nice with the simple grey, yellow, petrol and black bases of the textiles. 

Unfortunately the prices were a bit above what I can afford, but I'm happy I could see the designs myself. The Yoda blouse for Koen will have to stay a little longer on my wish-list.

Populo Batik 

Up next on my journey to Batik... Anne Avantie!! So see you soon on my blog!

Jakarta FashionWeek(end)

The contrast coming from Jeruk to Jakarta couldn't have been bigger. And now back in Sleman both seem like a dream I had. Flying from Semarang to Jakarta felt already extravaganza, but I hadn't seen the Jakarta FashionWeek yet. I had no idea what to expect. I've been to fashion shows before, but never a fashion week.
The first day, on Saturday 22 October, I went early to get my press-pass and to register. It was exciting to finally be at this event and seeing brands I wrote about on my blog these last 7 years on the catwalk (see links at the end of this post)

The fashion week is held at Senayan City, one of 60 malls in Jakarta! Inside the mall is a small catwalk used mostly for the press events. Outside, on what is normally a road, is the fashion tent with a very long catwalk, a press conference space and place for the visitors to take selfies or be photographed.

Novita Yunus of Batik Chic on the catwalk

After a press-conference in Bahasa Indonesia and receiving my first goodie bag, it was time for the opening show. A long parade of almost all designers who would show their collection during this week passed by. When Novita Yunus of Batik Chic walked by with her muze, I wanted to scream. I saw her later and she dragged me to the famous fashion week logo wall to pose with me. This woman is all glamour and when I ever grow up, this is my goal look!

Me and Novita Yunus

The first day was one of being very disappointed in a brand that is called Bateeq, but Batik is hard to find in this brand, and at the same day being very very surprised by two Indonesian designers.

First BYO. This young Indonesian designer was already the talk of the day. Everyone said I had to see his show. He is known for his bags & clutches that are very popular at the moment in Jakarta. In the press release is mentioned that he is heavily influenced by fantasy and science fiction and that this collection is inspired by Ridley Scott's Alien movie. Wauw, I was ready for some things, but this was very different. The material used for his designs is made of a kind of plastic that clicks together. The

models looked liked they just landed their spaceship and rocked their handbags perfectly. Unfortunately not all designs clicked as well on the skinny models, leaving some showing their underpants. Overall an interesting new look on fashion. I'm only wondering how sustainable his designs are, but thats maybe something for the next collection?

BYO's Indonesia Fashion Forward

Second, Jenahara Black Label. During the press conference I was so exited that a collection was based on one of my favourite singers and people on this planet, Patti Smith. And not only that: "I want to give a new way of thinking about modest fashion for muslim woman". Wauw, muslim wear and the Queen of Punk, what a combination, and yet it worked! 

The models entered the catwalk on a Patti Smith cover of 'Smells Like Teen Spirit'. The dark gloomy song gave the outfits an even edgier look. A transformation of Patti's signature look on her album 'Horses' into suits and dresses. Grey, white and leather outfits with a loose fit, Patti wouldn't wear it differently, decorated with chains and parts of lyrics like "Because the night".

Jenahara Black Label 'The Writer's Song' collection

Me and the Ambassadors of Batik

Leaving the fashion week, I bumped into the Ambassadors of Batik. Never heard of them before, but nice to spot pretty people representing Batik. Making a picture together and sharing contact information, I was happy to find out they had a talkshow the next day in the exhibition 'The Spectrum of Batik'. 

The exhibition was held to celebrate the 30th anniversary of IPMI (in English Indonesian Fashion Designer Council) and Batik Day 2016. 

The talkshow by Batik Putri Putra Batik Nusantara in Bahasa, with some effort by the host to get some English answers, was about how Batik could be fashionable for a younger generation. They explained how the Ambassadors got selected through a kind of talent-show where only the top-3 really has to know Batik. 

But I'm happy with any kind of support to promote Batik, so happy I could join in.

Exhibition 'The Spectrum of Batik' at Senayan City

On the second day, 23 October, these were my two favorite shows. 

First Iwet Ramadhan, better know as the designer for TIKprive. His fashion show was a tribute to women who have or had breast cancer. His unusual collaboration (for a fashion week) with the Cancer Foundation (it was also Breast Cancer Awareness Month) was actually a really great contribution. He could have used more Batik, but with a charity show like this, who's complaining.

Iwet Ramadhan show at JFW2017

Second show that I really loved that day was 'Cindramata' by Itang Yunasz. I was already told by some of my fellow media fashionista's, I had to see his show(s). I know it is a ready to wear collection, but what a collection. I loved the colours, the patterns, the textiles and the platform slippers. The ending with the models forming a colour coded line was spectacular! 

'Cindramata' by Itang Yunasz

For more fashion before my next Jakarta FashionWeek post, see the links below:

'Think globally, bag locally' (about Batik Chic)

'Once upon a time' (about Anne Avantie)

'As Far As The Eye Can See' (about Sejauh Mata Memandang)

Batik, Cethe, Tari & Kartini

Our last day in Jeruk, Lasem & Rembang was spend well. It started with documenting the tough process of boiling out the wax from the previously dyed Batik cloths. I saw this a few times before, but not like this. Ibu Ramini dipped the cloth barehanded in the boiling water. She dipped the end of the cloth in some cold water so she could turn it and do the other side of the cloth. Her collegue Ibu Juwariyah with whom she dyed the cloth the before, was pressing the just boiled cloth with her feet to remove the final traces of wax. 

An intens process which is hard and hot to create such delicate beauty at the end!

Because our flight got put to an earlier departure time, we had to fit more in our last day. We headed to Rembang to visit the Museum Kartini. Or better, the last place she lived. I still which to visit the place in Jepara were she is from, but that is for a next journey...We had a nice guide who appreciated my Kartini shirt. My Kartini shirt got actually dyed the day before in a great "chocolate" colour after I couldn't get it white anymore (Idea credit from Barbara).

Photo by Jennifer

After Museum Kartini we headed for syrup & coffee. The store sells al kinds of Chinese sweets and the Kawista syrup is their specialty. It had many names, but I believed the logo stayed the same. The Chinese folktale of the the boy on the back of a phenix. The logo is also on their bottle caps and I got some to make earrings!

After the syrup, it was time for coffee. I can always drink coffee, but this place is different. Here they make the cigarettes decorated with coffee calked Cethe. I heard about this from Pak William Kwan a few years ago and was happy he reminded us to go and see it (see post "All we can give as presents..."). We were very disappointed no one was there to make it, but we ordered a coffee anyway. A few minutes later a man arrived who was one of their regular customers who knows how to do it. He didn't mind showing us. He decorated a whole package while smoking and sharing stories about how he was invited to show his art in Jakarta and got to nervous to make it. He had no nerves at all now with us sitting starring at his hands.

So great to see this art live!

Pak Saefozi making Cethe at Warung Kopi Pak Ndut

It was time for the Tari Batik, so we headed first to Ibu Ramini to get my things and then to Ibu Maryati. I arrived at the house and next to it hang a long line of black with red Batiks out to dry. The image was so beautiful. I decided to change the location to film, when Dwi was wearing a red kabaya and a black with red batik from her mother. If I have set this up, it wouldn't have been so spot on. She finished her first performance and the wind waiting till that moment to blow all the batiks up...

Dwi changed into her regular clothing and we headed for the field nearby. I was very happy with our great driver Pak Pri also being my assistant. Dwi arrived and performed a second time with an audience of 10 young boys. The boys set down and watch mesmerized, absolutely quiet. She finished her dance and we gave her a big applause. I didn't want to put her more on the spot, so I announced it's a wrap. I saw relief and pride on her face.

Dwi performing Tari Batik

Leaving Jeruk was with true heartache, I know I will return again one day, I just have to!

Returning to Jeruk and Lasem

Writing again in a plane. This time from Jakarta to Yogyakarta. I had a wonderful, I think, truly Jakarta life-style week and happy to return to the more quiet life in Sleman (where I wrote most of this post).

On Monday 17 October I returned to Jeruk after exactly 7 years on the day (see blogpost "Jeruk" posted on 18 October 2009). 

I left early from Yogya with a driver to Semarang were we would pick up Jennifer. After a 6 hour drive, the landscape suddenly changed into the landscape I remember so well (see post "Landang garam"). 

I only been once one day to Jeruk and Lasem, so it is interesting I have such a strong connection with this place. But yet again, I felt as if I was returning home. My plan was to stay at Ibu Maryati, but it changed last minute, so I stayed at Ibu Ramini. To my surprise this was The Place I dreamed of visiting for so long. So it was meant to be.

The first thing Ibu Ramini asked Jennifer to ask me was: "Can't you stay one month?". Wauw, I really wanted that and wondered if I should change my plans...but I'm sure I will return and stay longer one day. 

Jennifer helped me explaining what my plans where and we were in luck that the next days the dyeing & the boiling out of the wax would be on the program.

Ibu Ramini remembered me well because she showed us a photo-album with the photos me & Tommas made during our short visit to Jeruk in 2009. I think I send them with my Batik design in 2011, but Ibu Ramini didn't remember that. Probably because it was at the time arranged with Ibu Maryati.

After our short catching up, we headed towards Ibu Maryati. She started her own Batik workshop at her home. I talked with Hanip and Dwi, the daughters of Ibu Maryati, to see how we would film the Tari Batik two days later. For me an inspiring household with three generations of Batik makers and with the youngest generation studying fashion and dance.

In the evening we were invited to eat a local dish at Ibu Ramini: Urap Latohan. A kind of salade with cocos and the seaweed that is used as a pattern in almost every batik from that area. You can't eat this dish the whole year round, so again we were lucky.

After a early bedtime and a early wake up, I started filming the colouring of the batiks. Brown, cocolat and red were on the planning. The colouring of the red looks like a magic trick. In the first dyeing bath only a blueish tinge appears on the cloth. In the second bath the cloth suddenly turns red. I hope I captured this well...

Jennifer brought with her the skirt and dress made from the Batiks I selected in Jakarta. Good idea of her to do a little photoshoot at the place they were made (well one here and one by Ibu Maryati). Me feeling goofy and nervous ended up being a bad model, but I made the batik makers laugh.

When near Lasem, you must visit Mr. Sigit, so we headed there next. The doors was closed, but his grandson welcomed us in. At the entrance only 4 or 5 batik makers were working, I remembered Pak William Kwan telling me about this, but I was happy to see there were 10 more women working around the corner. Nothing really changed at Mr. Sigit workshop, maybe less workers, but no big changes at first sight.

His grandson showed us some wonderful pieces and also new designs with Arabic texts on it. Maybe it is the influence of this new generation, happy to see and meet this new generation. I picked out one Batik for my own collection with a base in red with a pattern of peacocks and fish. Finally a finished piece from this workshop in my small collection!

Mr. Sigit wanted to meet us when we were just done shopping. He was standing in the door opening and said in Dutch something like "You come back from the Netherlands". I don't know if he actually remembered me, but he was really happy we were there. Mr. Sigit is now 88 years old and we were surprised to hear that the Batik workshop started with cap in 1923. It wasn't until 1967 (or 1976, I'm not sure) that they started with Batik Tulis. Nowadays if we talk about Batik Lasem we talk about the batiks from Sigit Witjaksono. It was nice to visit him again and to see a new generation ready to continue his legacy.

To stay in Batik Lasem theme, we visited two very old (more then 300 years old) and beautiful Chinese temples. There are theories the Batik motifs used in Lasem are based on artefacts & ornaments found here and I think I can agree with that.