August 17, 2013

My little Singapore Girl*

Singapore Girls in lobby of hotel in Copenhagen, 2008

In the Summer special of the Volkskrant was an article about the stewardesses of Singapore Airlines. These flight attendants are better know as 'Singapore Girls'. The name Singapore Girl is not a nickname, but is the official term for crewmembers of Singapore Airlines (SIA).
There is a lot of controversy around this name and what it stands for. SIA is the only airline company that actually hires on appearances and is being open about it. Is this a bad thing? If you know you get hired because you fit the code (size 6, flawless skin and always helpful and gallant).

The title Singapore Girl was new for me. I knew them as the pretty girls from Malaysia Airlines that had batik uniforms. My grandmother told me about these pretty girls and they always travelled with their airline company when they went to Indonesia.
The first time I saw them in real life was in the lobby of a fancy hotel in Copenhagen. I think I might have squealed and I photographed them like paparazzi. I thought it was maybe a little weird for them, but my mother said that they were used to it, being the pretty girls of Malaysia Airlines and all.

When I went to Indonesia, I didn't look for the cheapest flight, but just booked Malaysia Airlines. Family tradition and to see the batik uniforms up close. Oh my, these pretty girls were beautiful, helpful, spoke great English and when my veggie-meal was not on the list, the most gorgeous of them all arranged a Indian vegetarian breakfast and told me it was from her country and hoped I liked it. If anything, these Singapore girls can only be bad for one's self esteem.
Below some advertisements of SIA, mostly from the seventies, the last one is from my 'Guide to Java' from 1974.






But of course what I love about the Singapore Girls the most is their Batik uniforms. I couldn't find information about the chosen pattern or if the original ones were actually batiked (they look printed on pictures), so I will keep you posted if I do. Below are some nice things I did found out, and if you are in the Madam Tussaud in London, please send me a picture of you with the Singapore Girl!

In her distinctive uniform, a sarong kebaya in batik material, the Singapore Girl is one of the airline industry’s most recognizable figures. Her timeless elegance has graced the Airline’s innumerous global marketing campaigns, constantly winning over travelers around the world.

Malaysia-Singapore Airlines ceased operations on 1 October 1972 and Singapore Airlines took over as its successor. Singapore Girl was coined in 1972 when Pierre Balmain, a French haute couture designer, was hired by Singapore Airlines to construct and update the Malay "Sarong Kebaya" as part of the cabin crew's uniform. His talent as a designer lay in his ability to make simple, tailored suits as well as grand evening gowns, all with the same aesthetic of slender and elegant lines. Balmain designed the iconic uniform of the Singapore Airlines Singapore Girl, loosely based on the traditional Indonesian kebaya.
Since then, the uniform has gained worldwide recognition as part of SIA's recognizable signature branding.

In 1993, she became the first commercial figure ever to be displayed at Madame Tussaud’s, the world-famous waxwork museum in London.
Madame Tussaud’s said that she was selected to reflect the ever-growing popularity of international travel.

Exquisitely designed by Parisian couturier Pierre Balmain, the signature uniform in batik material reflects the Airline’s Asian heritage. Today, the design first introduced in 1968, is universally recognized as the Singapore Girl’s very own.
The Singapore Girl’s sarong kebaya comes in four colours, each representing a different rank.
Blue – "Flight Stewardess"
Green – "Leading Stewardess"
Red – "Chief Stewardess"
Burgundy - "In-Flight Supervisor" **


* Blogpost title based on the song 'My Little China Girl' by Iggy Pop
** Information from the Singapore Airlines website www.singaporeair.com and Wikipedia

August 11, 2013

Re-use, re-consuming and re-enjoying

'Eye on nature' exhibition at the Textielmuseum in Tilburg*

Susan and I went to the Textielmuseum in Tilburg to look at carpets and to make a Inuit or Japanese doll last week. "Wall hangings are back in a big way. Designers and artists have rediscovered a passion for these interior textiles. With Eyes on Nature: wall hangings, the TextielMuseum illustrates the evolution of Dutch wall hangings in the past 50 years. The exhibition ranges from realistic and abstract works, to rough and narrative modern pieces. The focus is on the depiction of nature", according to the Textielmuseum.
The wall hangings were nicely shown and gave it a When-I'm-grown-up-I-will-get-me-a-big-white-wall-to-hang-a-nice-wall-hanging-on feel to it. The evolution was for my taste to much focused on abstract tapestries, but I really liked that there were very different kinds of wall-hangings.
I especially liked the wall-hangings by Hella Jongerius. The re-use of old fabrics (for the bottles she used blankets) to make hip designs and the pieces for the IKEA PS collection show a great way of making new things without only consuming.

"Butterflies" by Marc Mulders, 2002

Detail "Latin America", embroidered (flat stitch) tapestry by Barbara Broekman

Detail of "Birds" by Jamie Hayon, 2013

"Threatened Swan" by Wilma Kuil, 1990. Wilma Kuil uses printed cloth and paints on top of that. This work is based on the painting by Jan Asselijn

"Herinneringen aan vergezichten" by Kiki van Eijk, 2013

"Paravent (#7)" by Hella Jongerius, 2005. For this carpet secondhand blankets are used with the needle-punch technique

Susan next to 'Pelle' and 'Mikkel' from the IKEA PS collection, 2009

These wall hangings by Hella Jongerius are made during a IKEA-Unicef project that helps Indian women to earn a living and meet other women while their children attend school. The wall-hangings result from both industrial and craft production and honour the role of the craftspeople, as each specific fabric carries the name of the woman who contributed to it. The images are taken from Swedish fairy tales, a reference to IKEA’s homeland.**

Hella Jongerius way of working reminded me of another great carpet-project, Carpet of Life***. The Carpet of Life concept is based on traditional Moroccan carpets called Boucherouite or Boucherwi, made by most families from nomadic background. This traditional way of making carpets almost disappeared. Textiles to create products are hard to come by in isolated parts of the world. The Carpet of Life concept works with secondhand clothing, not anyones clothing, but someone's wardrobe. You send your old clothing and they make a carpet from it. You can choose your own (abstract) design and what clothing is used were. The traditional way of making carpets in the Sahara is being protected while a custom made product is being created. A wonderful combination of re-use, re-consuming and re-enjoying!

The exhibition 'Eye On Nature' at the Textielmuseum in Tilburg is till 15 september. Below some pictures of the making of carpets from Carpet of Life.






* More about 'Eye on nature' on www.textielmuseum.nl
** Information from www.jongeriuslab.com
*** More about Carpet of Life on www.carpetoflife.com

August 2, 2013

Batik Statement XVI



Photographer, performer and make-up artist Remick asked me to make his Batik Statement. We have our studios in the same building, and so we talk a lot about our ideas, plans and artistic problems.
Remick makes these big, epic costumes for special occasion like Cultuurnacht in Breda*. In his performances and his outfits he noticed that he is always referring to his roots. Not consciously, more from the genes. The movements of Javanese dancers and shadows like Wayang dolls. Also the headpieces and other ornaments have a strong Asian feel to them.
To explore his Indonesian roots more he asked me to dress him up in Batiks. He was also my model during the Batik Statement Fashionshow**.

On the photos he is wearing Batiks from Madame Rosielle-Bergsma collection, which I also used during the Batik Statement Fashionshow. His dog Sonja turned out to be a great model as well. Thanks Mickel for your Batik Statement!


Got inspired? Get your Batik on! Make a picture of yourself wearing your favorite Batik and send it to me by email or post it on my Facebook wall. For inspiration see the previous 'Batik Statements' (tip: sunny, nice locations, lots of colors and good memories).


* Performance Remick during Cultuurnacht 2012, http://youtu.be/sB9SX4kI5wQ
** See my blogpost 'Batik Statement Fashionshow'

July 26, 2013

A house filled with Indonesia

Wall filled with ikats, batiks and other fabrics from Indonesia

A short heatwave made blogging a little bit of a challenge, more for my computer then for me, but still, it has been too quiet on De reis naar Batik.
Two weeks back me and Koen went to the National Museum of Ethnology (Rijksmuseum Volkenkunde) in Leiden. Eversince I found an article about the "spectacular donation"* by deceased Fritz Liefkes I have checked their website monthly. The former conservator of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam left them a collection of 750 artifacts from Indonesia mostly from between 1850 till 1950. His only demand was that they made a special exhibition of his collection. And they did!

In the weekend we went, the museum had special activities like making a Wayang doll workshop and Balinese dance. The Balinese dance demonstration was done by the brilliant group Sinar Bulan**. With a lot of humor they explain the differences between Javanese and Balinese dance, show different costumes and make it very accessible. On the end of the day they showed different mask dances from Bali. During the last dance the dancer transformed into an old man. The mask with long grey hair looked funny at first. With her movements she told a story of the difficulty of growing old, really strong and inspiring to see.

The Liefkes collection, a collection build with love, consists of many different objects from very different places. Gold was clearly his favorite material. Next to beautiful jewelry, he owned 450 fabrics of which many were decorated with the prada technique (gold lines on top of Batik patterns) or are embroidered with gold thread.
The entrance of the exhibition started with a great wall full of cloths. A brilliant way of showing them. A simple steel construction and magnets, but what an effect. I was so jealous, but I also realized how great it was that he collected all these beautiful things to later share them with us.

I made a lot of pictures, and still I wish I could have visited the exhibition again. You see so much at once (and it was pretty busy, and that is pretty good) that you miss details or forget to make a picture of a Carolina von Franquemont batik from around 1850, shame on me...
Anyway, enjoy the photos and make sure to visit the museum. They have a great collection, it is a big museum so make it a day to check it out. Me and Koen could only see the Liefkes exhibition, Fetish Modernity, Indonesia and we ran through Japan, China, Korea and Oceania, so we missed the whole of America, the rest of their Asia collection and Africa!

Other side of the wall, also filled with beautiful fabrics. The upper cloth is a ceremonial batik, kampuhan. From the edges filled with trees and chicken, lightning strikes the blue middle part. The middle doesn't represent the night sky, but the balong, the fishpond every acreage On West Java has***
Undermost cloth, a sarong for men. The dark blue batik like a night sky is filled with eight-pointed suns in which the Muslim proverb "Piring aji" is written, next to full moons with a bird in them. It stands for the arrival of Islam***
Detail of chicken on a krudung or mirong, head or shoulder cloth, with prada. Style influenced by Pekalongan. From Cirebon, 1875-1900***
Batik with prada on Chinese silk, the different animals are symbols for all life in the universe, "alas-alasan". Cirebon, 1875-1900***
Detail from "alas-alasan" batik
Batik filled with symbols for fertility. The butterflies stand for long life. The medallions with a flying pair of birds stands for heaven, see next photo***
This kain panjang dlorong or obar abir, hipcloth was probably a weddinggift for a Peranakan bride. The cloth is filled with Chinese mythical creatures like the qilin, a gentle animal with hoofs and scales like a dragon. Cirebon, 1860-1875***

Detail from dodot ageng. Ceremonial cloth made with tritik, tie-dye and prada. Surakarta, mid 20th century***
Sigar with aristocratic male motif made by Raja Aluda Tajularifin, wife of Sultan sepuh XI, during her pregnancy to wish for a boy. The red batik behind it is probably a langit-langit, used to hang above the weddingbed. The paper label on it was probably written by none other than batikexpert Gerrit Rouffaer (1860-1928)***
Dancer from Sinar Bulan

* article 'Spectaculaire schenking voor museum' in De Trouw
** More about Sinar Bulan on their website www.sinarbulan.com
*** explanatory text from bookled 'Een huis vol Indonesië' from Rijksmuseum Volkenkunde

More about the exhibition 'A house filled with Indonesia' on www.volkenkunde.nl

More about the National Museum of Ethnology in my previous post 'Ethnology Museum in Leiden'

July 15, 2013

Batik Statement XV



My cousin Cliff surprised me a few weeks back with his Batik Statement and stack of CD of Indonesian music. It was really nice seeing him, our family isn't really close, so we hadn't seen each other in a long time.
He lent me great modern Indonesian music and brought with him his Batiks with a picture of him wearing the traditional temple clothing of Bali.
I made a collage of the picture with the Batiks and added some flowerpetals for the Bali-touch.

Hope you'll like it Cliff! And hope to see you soon!

Batik from Yogyakarta with prada (gold outlines) on Batik (made with cap & canting) from Bali

Got inspired? Get your Batik on! Make a picture of yourself wearing your favorite Batik and send it to me by email or post it on my Facebook wall. For inspiration see the previous 'Batik Statements' (tip: sunny, nice locations, lots of colors and good memories).

July 13, 2013

Historical fiction

"The Call Of The East", sculpture at Korte Vijverberg 5 in Den Haag

In the Summertime no exotic vacations for me, but I love being at home during this time of year. At my side job I can relax and read, while watching people haste all the way to holiday. I can also catch up on literature and great articles, because all my colleagues are unreachable, blogger had an error with images and our other mac died. Our newpaper spends many pages on art and it's future. "The challenge of artists today is the opposite (of what Pierro Manzoni did): not showing that art is as common as shit, but proving art is as special as gold." and according to Alain de Botton: "Art is a concentrated dose of things that are good in this world. It reminds us what love is, what creativity is, of goodness and freedom. Art can make our lives better, partly because we recognize emotions, and partly because we get in touch with the ones we lost. We have to be so strong, that we forget how to be kind and soft. Art invites us to be kind again."*
It's a pity that only the poor stay-at-homers can enjoy these articles...

Summertime is also the perfect time to travel in books. Even if you are on a bounty island. A few weeks back I went to a lecture about Louise Couperus in Den Haag. I combined it with visiting the exhibition 'The Dutch East Indies in The Hague - A centuries-old bond' in the Haags Historisch Museum and a search for Ring-necked Parakeet and 'traces of emerald'.

"From the seventeenth century, the Netherlands was linked to the Indonesian Archipelago until all that came to an end in 1949. In the period between 1945 and 1966, an estimated 350,000 people relocated from the former colony to the Netherlands, a significant portion of them settling in The Hague. The Hague was an obvious choice: it was home to the Ministry of Colonies and to many institutions and businesses that had traditionally done business in the East. It had everything anyone could need relating to the colony, ranging from shops selling essentials for use in the tropics to Indonesian delicatessens offering authentic ingredients. The Hague offered people on leave from the colony temporary accommodation whilst others prepared for their journey to the Dutch East Indies."**

"De Stille Kracht" with batiked cover

Although we have this historical bond, these memories of the Dutch East Indies are best found in books. Louis Couperus made the Dutch acquainted to lifestyle of people in the Dutch East Indies. This to great displeasure overseas. "De Stille Kracht" ("The Hidden Force") published in 1900 got a lot of criticism. 'Indiëgangers' felt betrayed by their own kind. Couperus came from an upper class family with important positions in the colonial politics. His novel is about decadence and decay in an typical colonial upper class family of that time. It's not anti-colonial, that was a too modern idea for that time, but it was critical about the government in the Dutch East Indies nevertheless.

Doodles by Louis Couperus in his manuscript for "De Stille Kracht"


The other books in the exhibition also show the different lifestyle of the 'indiëgangers'. The romantic Tempoe Doeloe in which belanda's learned about exotic animals and each family had a baboe is evidently the most important memory we have of the Dutch East Indies.




On my way to the museum I got lost and found Hotel Des Indes. I tried to picture the suntanned well dresses people on furlough walking from the entrance, but it felt a bit silly and somehow hard to imagine. After the lecture I continued my search for city parrots and shared heritage. Looking at the sculptures on the building of the former Rotterdamsche Lloyd I felt vicariously ashamed, I couldn't help wondering what good it all did. Not only overseas, but also here. Common men have passed these buildings for a century now and what heritage did it leave them? I think it is great and very important that with the project Sporen van Smaragd this heritage is getting more commonly known.***But it's also good to realize that the romantic stories and memories are from only one point of view. Good for fantasy, not so good for history.

Lange Voorhout 54-56 in Den Haag

Plaats 29-31 in Den Haag

Korte Vijverberg 5 in Den Haag

Korte Vijverberg 5 in Den Haag

Korte Vijverberg 5 in Den Haag

Korte Vijverberg 5 in Den Haag

* quotes translated from articles in De Volkskrant
** Text from the Haags Historisch Museum website
*** More information about the interesting project by Sporen van Smaragd on www.sporenvansmaragd.nl and in my blogpost 'Traces of Emerald'