View from the slower train
Mila showing her Batik work
Mak Sium showing her batik still in wax
After Jakarta, it was really nice to go to Bandung again on 28 & 29 July. Took the Whoooshh on Sunday, which was interesting to try, but honestly the whole point for me is the actually enjoy the view, slow down and catch up on much needed writing of blogposts. But it was nice to try out ~ also it is a bit for from the center of Jakarta and still need to drive about 1 hour to Bandung, so still the traveltime is about the same.
In Bandung I continued working with Nidi Kusmaya on our natural dye project. Trying to turn the recipes Van Musschenbroek translated in 1878 into more workable recipes. It is so fun to decipher together and wonder about what the ingredients function actual was in the dyeing process. We worked on it for two days and Nidi will dive into her studio to try the recipes out again.
Working with Nidi on the old recipes
Textiles by Roman at his store Boolao
Batik design by Roman
In between got the visit Roman Muhtar. And see his brand new place Boolao. I have been loving Roman’s batik content, his creations of textiles and now his new venture in open up his own space. In his space he gathers next to his own made kains & clothing, also clothing and jewellery of friends with brands.
Roman doesn’t considers himself a fashiondesigner or stylist, but a textile/kain maker. He is maybe not too keen on fashion side, but his looks are very fashionable. He learned the batik technique in Cirebon and still works with the Ibu-ibu’s there to create his pieces. He combines batik with shibori and embroidery using it on different fabrics. He got beautiful silks from Cambodia and locally woven textiles with interesting textures.
It was wonderful to learn more about his work, share thoughts on the craft of Batik and the makers of this craft and how to support it.
Thanks for welcoming me, looking forward to visiting again!
Batik & embroidery, design by Roman
At Boolao
Back in Pekalongan
After Bandung I took a train to Pekalongan on 30 July. It was so strange and comforting little had changed since my stay here two years ago.
My visit to Pekalongan started rough. I got the news my friend & batikmaker Ibu Siti was in the hospital. The next morning I first went to Pak Qomar’s grave. He passed away 17 May 2024. I hadn’t been back to Java yet and I knew I would miss him much if I return here (post of last road trip together). His brother kindly brought me. I bought flowers and scattered them over his makam (grave) and that of his parents next to him. His brother took some flowers too. Shall we pray? Yes, please I follow you. Couldn’t stop my tears. It is okay, he said.
After that I headed to the hospital. Ibu Siti has returned home, but still is not better. I worry, a lot, but she tells me she feels a little better.
I basically spend the afternoon crying. How miserable I felt, finally back to the makers and this is how they are doing…
Pak Qomar in November 2023
Nurse wearing a uniform with batikmotif Gringsing
- Gringsing is considered a healing motif
The next day I went to Ibu Nurul first. Last time I was there she was only home temporarily, good thing now she returned for good! Happy Batang is her home again. Walking in this time alone, without Pak Qomar, was so sad, but it also was as if I came for tea just the day before. Chatting with Ibu Nurul and her mother about missing him, because the community really misses him and agree there is nobody like Pak Qomar who knows all the makers & knows and enjoys batik.
The worry now was mainly how was I getting from a to b, or in this case to Mak Sium.
After a Whatsapp to her daughter, I got a WA back that I was being picked up.
Mak Sium son-in-law Achyar came pick me up. It made me so happy to drive the short route through the ricefield only motorcycles/scooters can take.
Batik by Nurul, classic motif with a modern twist
Nurul showing her batiks
A sign of relief seeing Mak Sium doing well, not just well, basically the same. Her daughters welcomed me and all kind of snacks appeared from the kitchen. Same as with Ibu Nurul, it was just normal. Yes, I have to travel far, but I am considered saudara (literally means brother, but here used as ‘family). I got complimented that my Bahasa Indonesia improved a lot, happy to hear, since my city friends are so critical.
If I wanted to see batiks? Always! After a while Mak Sium got up and came back with a very fine batik sarong. Apparently the batik is 80 years old, from her family. I was calculating, oh 1945, so during the war. Mak Sium shared how when she was little, they had to take shelter in a bunker. She must have been 6 or 7 at the time.
She put the newly made batik, locally referred to as Batik Materos (a reference to Matheron a maker from Banyumas, but style was already copied in the 1920’s in Pekalongan), next to the old one and started comparing the motifs. Yes, the motifs are much smaller & finer, but the motifs are mostly the same. The old sarong full of holes seems to be of a much finer woven cotton, which makes me wonder if the local made cotton the Batang makers prefer now, prevent them for working so fine.
Got to join in with lunch ~ rice, tempeh & daun papaya, no better food on Java than at the makers home.
Mak Sium was showing me her batik still in wax. The plastic floorcarpets are a silent source of inspiration. This time even the little farmer made it into her latest design!
After lunch, Pak Achyar insisted on bringing me back. In front of the hotel, he said, we are family, I want to be like Pak Qomar for you. Next time, I will go with you to everyone.
I felt like crying again, but also the situation was so funny. This man kinda yelling we are family while around us curious employee of the hotel where looking at us. My heart that felt so broken just a day before, felt full.
Since Ibu Siti is still recovering, the trip I do starting on 8th of August had to be changed. Luckily Ibu Nuri & Ibu Ramini agreed to take on the dyeing too. Ibu Nurul is happy to receive us at her home.
For a second lunch, Mas Dewa picked me up for our traditional Gado-gado near Museum Batik. Mas Dewa is always too busy, but without fail we manage this tradition which always me to get updated on the current batik politics.
Batiks by Mak Sium
Old batik from Mak Sium family
Comparing the details in the new and old batik
Last day, for now, in Pekalongan I spend with Mbak Mila. Mila just graduated from the university studying batik. I cannot be prouder!
I first met Mila in 2022. She just started her study and shared my journey to Batik inspired her to start hers!
We stayed in touch and revisited her in 2023. On instagram I have been enjoying her progress, doing event & working on her brand. She wants to make slow fashion next to Batik Tulis and has been making & dyeing batiks in her garden.
Mila asked me if I knew a place for her to intern & dive into natural dyes further. Nuri of Batik Marenggo welcomed her at her studio in Sleman near Yogyakarta.
Now Mila graduated, with flying colours! What marvelous batik children I have! But maybe we are more sisters, but I feel so proud!
Best thing, we got to hang out and catch up. I am so so so happy I used this visit to take time with people instead of having a full program with talks.
Yes, I get many requests, disappointed messages and I sadly cannot meet everyone, since a month is way too short. But happy go to spend time with my batik buddies & family!
Posing with Mila with her batik dyed in Indigo
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