She doesn't make fashion, she creates goddesses

Already a couple of years I'm wishes to see a Anne Avantie fashion show live. This designer is know for her wonderful Sarong & Kebaya creations. The photos I saw before show beautiful, powerful women in beautiful traditional, yet it is new fashion. Like a fairytale on a catwalk.

In the afternoon of Tuesday 25 October at the Jakarta FashionWeek was a press conference and I was already happy to see Anne Avantie in real life. This new collection was inspired by Bali. So I understood that this meant I would miss out on her Batik-creations, but I wanted to ask her about Batik anyway.
A journalist before me asked something and I got the microphone after him. I said I knew Batik would not be used this time, but I did wanted to ask her what her opinion was about Batik nowadays and how she saw her part in this.
She didn't answer in English, but I understood directly that she is very passionate about this. I later got a rough translation and mixed it with my own understanding of her answer: "When we are talking about Batik, we are talking about Tulis, the technique. Not print, nor cap. I always will be inspired by Indonesian culture, because it is very important for me."
After the answer the press conference ended and I was very lucky I could ask her this (I made a recording, I will try to get a more accurate longer translation)
Batik Tulis would not be on the catwalk that evening, but the promise of ikat and prada made me glad already!

The fashion show started with the sound of a rooster calling morning dawn. Balinese dancers entered the stage both blessing it and show the first fashion pieces. You know immediately this is going to be a party!
The morning parade was a colourful mixes of lace and woven textiles in a wide range of colours. Every piece looks like it is the traditional wear for a 1000 years, because it fits so perfectly to every model. The models walk on stage which such graze making it possible for everyone to see the outfits well. At the end they strike a pose which make men fall on their knees and girls too.

After the morning it was time for the afternoon with white lace and gold on black fabrics. The soundtrack was all loud Balinese music which made it cheerful and elegant at once. The details in every piece is a real treat. I think every model has a Melati behind her ear and gorgeous jewellery like earwings, hair-ornaments and the Balinese wooden earrings in gold. Even all shoes were well chosen. And my favourite piece of this part of day was actually a pair of pants. But how cool is a prada patterned skinny jeans?!

The day ended and evening setting in on stage with a loud beating drum. Colours came back on stage in a hard pink and a rich blue. Capes covering lace bodysuits, big scarfs and short kebaya tops on skinny prada pants dominated this last part of her show. I knew then, what is also the title of this post: Anne Avantie doesn't make fashion, she creates goddesses!

Thank you Anne Avantie! And thank you Jakarta FashionWeek 2017!

There is one more JFW 2017 post coming up... thanks for reading!

3rd & 4th day of Jakarta FashionWeek

Waiting to get my picture taken at imigrasi, I thought it would be a good idea to start writing my second post about the Jakarta FashionWeek 2017.
On Monday 24 October I started my fashion-week-day with checking out the FashionLink upstairs in the mall. A floor filled with small booths where designers sell their fashion. Nice to have a closer look at some of the fashion.

Batik Chic booth at FashionLink

First show that I attended was to my surprise inspired by Borneo. The collection by Albert Yanuar presented by body wash GIV was very stylish. Beautiful Kalimantan patterns on white and black based dresses. Of course all were printed textiles, but the finishing of the pieces was with a good eye for detail.

'Algarry' by Albert Yanuar

The next show I really liked on my third JFW day was a collaboration of Lekat and British fashion designer Billie Jacobina. Lekat is a brand that makes a connection with Indonesian culture through a wide range of textiles and motifs. The texture of the textiles used in this specific show were really good. Rough and thick and at the same time soft and playful. Also the choose of models was different. It were not only skinny giants on the catwalk which makes it easier to imagine wearing the clothes yourself.

Lekat x Billie Jacobina

The last nice show of the day was of Purana. Flowy elegant dresses. The designs were simpel, yet the colours very brave. The traditional hats with braids made from ribbons were a nice touch.

Purana

The next day, Tuesday 25 October, started with a very over the top show called "The Golden Queen". Well actually all shows presented by Abineri Ang were very over the top. Anyway, I could appreciate the extravaganza, but some dresses were just impossible to move in for the models. Everyone was holding their breath when they needed to make the turn at the end of the catwalk.

In between shows I headed out to visit the showroom of Populo Batik. The brand is best known for their Star Wars Batik Cap collection (see my previous post 

'New stuff, cheap stuff, mass production stuff & thrown away stuff'). The showroom is around the corner so I could actually walk there, unique for Jakarta!

The clothing by Populo Batik is very modern and stylish. I think in Jakarta and any other big city people will really like it. The motifs in white contrast nice with the simple grey, yellow, petrol and black bases of the textiles. 

Unfortunately the prices were a bit above what I can afford, but I'm happy I could see the designs myself. The Yoda blouse for Koen will have to stay a little longer on my wish-list.

Populo Batik 

Up next on my journey to Batik... Anne Avantie!! So see you soon on my blog!

Jakarta FashionWeek(end)

The contrast coming from Jeruk to Jakarta couldn't have been bigger. And now back in Sleman both seem like a dream I had. Flying from Semarang to Jakarta felt already extravaganza, but I hadn't seen the Jakarta FashionWeek yet. I had no idea what to expect. I've been to fashion shows before, but never a fashion week.
The first day, on Saturday 22 October, I went early to get my press-pass and to register. It was exciting to finally be at this event and seeing brands I wrote about on my blog these last 7 years on the catwalk (see links at the end of this post)

The fashion week is held at Senayan City, one of 60 malls in Jakarta! Inside the mall is a small catwalk used mostly for the press events. Outside, on what is normally a road, is the fashion tent with a very long catwalk, a press conference space and place for the visitors to take selfies or be photographed.

Novita Yunus of Batik Chic on the catwalk

After a press-conference in Bahasa Indonesia and receiving my first goodie bag, it was time for the opening show. A long parade of almost all designers who would show their collection during this week passed by. When Novita Yunus of Batik Chic walked by with her muze, I wanted to scream. I saw her later and she dragged me to the famous fashion week logo wall to pose with me. This woman is all glamour and when I ever grow up, this is my goal look!

Me and Novita Yunus

The first day was one of being very disappointed in a brand that is called Bateeq, but Batik is hard to find in this brand, and at the same day being very very surprised by two Indonesian designers.

First BYO. This young Indonesian designer was already the talk of the day. Everyone said I had to see his show. He is known for his bags & clutches that are very popular at the moment in Jakarta. In the press release is mentioned that he is heavily influenced by fantasy and science fiction and that this collection is inspired by Ridley Scott's Alien movie. Wauw, I was ready for some things, but this was very different. The material used for his designs is made of a kind of plastic that clicks together. The

models looked liked they just landed their spaceship and rocked their handbags perfectly. Unfortunately not all designs clicked as well on the skinny models, leaving some showing their underpants. Overall an interesting new look on fashion. I'm only wondering how sustainable his designs are, but thats maybe something for the next collection?

BYO's Indonesia Fashion Forward

Second, Jenahara Black Label. During the press conference I was so exited that a collection was based on one of my favourite singers and people on this planet, Patti Smith. And not only that: "I want to give a new way of thinking about modest fashion for muslim woman". Wauw, muslim wear and the Queen of Punk, what a combination, and yet it worked! 

The models entered the catwalk on a Patti Smith cover of 'Smells Like Teen Spirit'. The dark gloomy song gave the outfits an even edgier look. A transformation of Patti's signature look on her album 'Horses' into suits and dresses. Grey, white and leather outfits with a loose fit, Patti wouldn't wear it differently, decorated with chains and parts of lyrics like "Because the night".

Jenahara Black Label 'The Writer's Song' collection

Me and the Ambassadors of Batik

Leaving the fashion week, I bumped into the Ambassadors of Batik. Never heard of them before, but nice to spot pretty people representing Batik. Making a picture together and sharing contact information, I was happy to find out they had a talkshow the next day in the exhibition 'The Spectrum of Batik'. 

The exhibition was held to celebrate the 30th anniversary of IPMI (in English Indonesian Fashion Designer Council) and Batik Day 2016. 

The talkshow by Batik Putri Putra Batik Nusantara in Bahasa, with some effort by the host to get some English answers, was about how Batik could be fashionable for a younger generation. They explained how the Ambassadors got selected through a kind of talent-show where only the top-3 really has to know Batik. 

But I'm happy with any kind of support to promote Batik, so happy I could join in.

Exhibition 'The Spectrum of Batik' at Senayan City

On the second day, 23 October, these were my two favorite shows. 

First Iwet Ramadhan, better know as the designer for TIKprive. His fashion show was a tribute to women who have or had breast cancer. His unusual collaboration (for a fashion week) with the Cancer Foundation (it was also Breast Cancer Awareness Month) was actually a really great contribution. He could have used more Batik, but with a charity show like this, who's complaining.

Iwet Ramadhan show at JFW2017

Second show that I really loved that day was 'Cindramata' by Itang Yunasz. I was already told by some of my fellow media fashionista's, I had to see his show(s). I know it is a ready to wear collection, but what a collection. I loved the colours, the patterns, the textiles and the platform slippers. The ending with the models forming a colour coded line was spectacular! 

'Cindramata' by Itang Yunasz

For more fashion before my next Jakarta FashionWeek post, see the links below:

'Think globally, bag locally' (about Batik Chic)

'Once upon a time' (about Anne Avantie)

'As Far As The Eye Can See' (about Sejauh Mata Memandang)

Batik, Cethe, Tari & Kartini

Our last day in Jeruk, Lasem & Rembang was spend well. It started with documenting the tough process of boiling out the wax from the previously dyed Batik cloths. I saw this a few times before, but not like this. Ibu Ramini dipped the cloth barehanded in the boiling water. She dipped the end of the cloth in some cold water so she could turn it and do the other side of the cloth. Her collegue Ibu Juwariyah with whom she dyed the cloth the before, was pressing the just boiled cloth with her feet to remove the final traces of wax. 

An intens process which is hard and hot to create such delicate beauty at the end!

Because our flight got put to an earlier departure time, we had to fit more in our last day. We headed to Rembang to visit the Museum Kartini. Or better, the last place she lived. I still which to visit the place in Jepara were she is from, but that is for a next journey...We had a nice guide who appreciated my Kartini shirt. My Kartini shirt got actually dyed the day before in a great "chocolate" colour after I couldn't get it white anymore (Idea credit from Barbara).

Photo by Jennifer

After Museum Kartini we headed for syrup & coffee. The store sells al kinds of Chinese sweets and the Kawista syrup is their specialty. It had many names, but I believed the logo stayed the same. The Chinese folktale of the the boy on the back of a phenix. The logo is also on their bottle caps and I got some to make earrings!

After the syrup, it was time for coffee. I can always drink coffee, but this place is different. Here they make the cigarettes decorated with coffee calked Cethe. I heard about this from Pak William Kwan a few years ago and was happy he reminded us to go and see it (see post "All we can give as presents..."). We were very disappointed no one was there to make it, but we ordered a coffee anyway. A few minutes later a man arrived who was one of their regular customers who knows how to do it. He didn't mind showing us. He decorated a whole package while smoking and sharing stories about how he was invited to show his art in Jakarta and got to nervous to make it. He had no nerves at all now with us sitting starring at his hands.

So great to see this art live!

Pak Saefozi making Cethe at Warung Kopi Pak Ndut

It was time for the Tari Batik, so we headed first to Ibu Ramini to get my things and then to Ibu Maryati. I arrived at the house and next to it hang a long line of black with red Batiks out to dry. The image was so beautiful. I decided to change the location to film, when Dwi was wearing a red kabaya and a black with red batik from her mother. If I have set this up, it wouldn't have been so spot on. She finished her first performance and the wind waiting till that moment to blow all the batiks up...

Dwi changed into her regular clothing and we headed for the field nearby. I was very happy with our great driver Pak Pri also being my assistant. Dwi arrived and performed a second time with an audience of 10 young boys. The boys set down and watch mesmerized, absolutely quiet. She finished her dance and we gave her a big applause. I didn't want to put her more on the spot, so I announced it's a wrap. I saw relief and pride on her face.

Dwi performing Tari Batik

Leaving Jeruk was with true heartache, I know I will return again one day, I just have to!