Buketan, Batik Parade, Wayang and Tari Batik

Buketan Workshop in Batang

On Sunday morning 6 October I went to Miss Siti home. I was at her sisters home last time and filmed Nurul with her sister, mother and aunt making Batik. I met Miss Siti when I came before, meeting the family and was surprised to find someone there speaking English very well. I discuss with Miss Siti many things regarding Batik; natural dyes, experimenting on different fabrics and how to improve on synthetic dye. I asked if she was interested in hosting a try-out Workshop. I hope to return next time organizing a Summerschool for batikmakers. In this Summerschool I hope to work with different subjects regarding the Indo-European influence and what knowlegde had been lost, like for example dyeing Batik with Mengkudu red. As I try-out I prepared a workshop on the development of the ‘Buketan’ motif. Now still used in Pekalongan, but you find it through out the North coast in different versions. Some look more like the origin of the motif, an Indian Tree of Life like in Chintz, or the Peranakan Chinese vase also found on ceramics. The Buketan looks more like old Dutch vanitas painting or like French wall-paper motifs. I included images of Batiks next to their source. To my surprise they right away took the photo of the ‘Nutmeg’ Tree of life Batik attributed to Von Franquemont. They made drawings of their classic motifs and the resemblance is very strong. An interesting find that I did not suspect.

Miss Siti sharing her experiments

Miss Nurul showing her Batik

Miss Siti also shared her experiments with me of Natural dyes on locally woven textiles. She views her work as a Batikmaker much more as an artists then working in the tradition of the region. I am happy I could already buy some of her works & ordered new ones also. She will be one of artist joining my ‘Tiga Negeri’ project. Looking forward to her version of the Java Print classic ‘Good Living’.
Miss Nurul shared her finished Batiks, beautiful fine detailed selendangs. You don’t come across them often, they take much more time to make and so many makers prefer to make Sarongs they can sell for a higher price. Actually all Nurul’s Slendangs were priced the same, so I adviced her to price them according to detail, amount of time making. Hope she asked more next time. She makes the Batiks in her free time and in her holidays. She loves making them and I am so happy this new generations is her to continue the Batik legacy of the Batang region. Also Nurul’s younger sister is making them and their mother is so proud. So am I!

Batik Parade in Pekalongan

After a delicious lunch Miss Siti prepared for us, I had to rush back to Pekalongan. I was asked to be part of the jury for the Karnaval Kostum Batik, also known as the Batik Parade. It was a dream come true and it turned out being a big job. I got a stack of papers and I had to judge 80 participants in 5 categories on 3 points, creativity & idea - execution of the idea - performance & delivery, extra points could be made for following the theme ‘Sea Life’ and using the ‘Sekar Jagad’ batikmotif. Every participant would show off their outfit in front of us. Some had a dance, a story line with extra participants and some just walked passed us. The outfits were all so wonderful, so much work went in to them and some seemed so heavy for the wearer. It was very hot, yet all smiled. I enjoyed it so much and tried to make a good judgement, many based on how much Batik was used. Most included printed textiles and only a few Batik Cap.
After the parade, the jury had to gather at Museum Batik. It took very long to put in all the scores, but when we had them, it turned out we agreed on the top 5’s. Per category we had to make a top 3 and choose the best model. Every judge could say who should be 2 or 3, on the 1th places we were all agreeing faster. It was so great being able to contribute and noticing how much we thought the same way!

On Monday morning I was invited for a talkshow at the Batik Week event. The Pekan Batik organization was a little more chaotic this year, so my host thought it started at 13pm, will I was on the program at 10am. We started when she arrived. She works at the local BatikTV and had great questions prepared; on my idea about ‘Batik Print’, the difference of Pekalongan Batik compared to other cities on Java, 10 years Unesco Intangible Heritage and how we could improve to love for Batik. Mas Dewa functioned as my translator and added nice points on how Museum Batik contributes to these questions. We didn’t had a big audience when we started, but more came to watch and at the end got applause also from the booth holders.

Historian Achmad Ilya, his book and me

In the evening a big Wayang program was being held. I spend my afternoon hanging out at the museum, making jokes with the people there, having Kucing Frederica on my lap and writing a blogpost.
Historian Achmad Ilyas came to meet me, he attended my talk on Friday and wanted to give me a copy of his book on the development of the Batik industry in Pekalongan. This book is only published in a limited edition, so I am very thankful he gave it to me, thank you for this beautiful book. His book described in great detail the history of Pekalongan Batik. We had a nice talk on where to find sources and were to find more. He agreed that in the Netherlands still the most can be found.

At 20pm the Wayang started. A huge stage with a view on what normally is actually the back of the stage. The performance was a great combination of traditional Wayang with modern twists. The main character come up with a lot of smoke, like in an action movie. It is interesting how fast you get drawn in. The wayang-performer also let the wayang-figures do all kind of stunts, often making them fly off in the group of Gamelan players. This all caused many laughs through the audience. He also made a call on his phone during the performance.
Two ladies came up and did a comedy routine. The singers from Banyumas are famous and madd punchline after punchline. I was moved frontrow - which was nice - until I got invited on stag. The ladies tried to include me in this routine of repeating their dance & words. I had no clue of what was expected of me so I just tried to be so polite and clumsy as possible. I even ended up doing an old ballet routine om Gamelan. Oh my, I wanted to leave that stage so badly. Luckily this culture of embarrassing you like that is seen as part of the entertainment, in Netherlands people would have embarrass me further afterwards and would be mean about it, here people actually thank me later for the entertainment I brought and said I did a good job.

Fashionclass at SMK N 1 Warungasem

Repairing motorcycles at SMK N 1 Warungasem

It became pretty late and had to start early the next day. My last part of the program here was a visiting to SMK N 1 Warungasem, the vacational highschool on which Batikmaker Miss Nurul is a student. I met Ibu Asih and other members of the teachers-staff before in Pekalongan and during the event in Batang. They organized a screening of my film for the students. I got a tour of the school were many practical skills are being taught. There is fashion which includes tailoring and batik making, repairing cars and motors, a multimedia class from installing antennas to repairing dvd-players. Also classes in growing crops are given. The motor class was making Shibori and were looking at their finished results outside. Of course a groupphoto had to be made. After the tour, I was asked to enter a classroom. Expecting an empty room, I first saw a banner with my name on the wall including a windmill, laughing about this, I turned around and was created by a full classroom. After speeches of the head of the school, my film was shown.
Girls laughed about the “Hello’s” in the beginning and everyone watched with much attention. After the film students could ask questions. The first brave one asked how I knew about Batik. Not many know that most people in the Netherlands, and even the world, know about Batik. Second question was on the sound ~ I get this response a lot, I made my film with the actual soundtrack, the noises that were there at the time. I of course edited this, so I play with the heavy sound and silence. When editing my film, the noise of the chainsaw on which Dwi dances as if she only hears Gamelan, became such a strong metaphor for Indonesian culture surviving in a fast growing loud world.
Nurul also had a question on Indonesian Batik compared with Batik made in other places. I asked Miss Nurul to bring some of her batiks so we could share them with her schoolmates. She even prepared handwritten notes in English explaining the design. It was great sharing her work, especially since she is starring in the film. I am so proud of you Nurul, thank you for inviting me and many thanks to Ibu Asih and everyone who welcomed me and gave me this wonderful experience.

Shibori lesson for the engineer-class at SMK N 1 Warungasem

Screening ‘Tari Batik’

Nurul’s Batik, Ibu Asih & Miss Nurul

In the afternoon I was not well, probably something I eat and being tired. After a good sleep and a pharmacy of pills, I woke up a lot better. Still weak, but okay, I was happy I could say my goodbyes and thanks at the Museum before catching my train. After a short trip, only 1,5 hours, I arrived in Semarang. Pak Tubagus picked me up and first thing we did was eating at the Vegan restaurant that we went to in 2009, 10 years ago. Will be a few days in the region Semarang to exploring the history of Carolina Josephina von Franquemont. I will be filming on different locations with Denny Antyo. Until next update on my journey to Batik!

What Batik is made of

Canting and Cap store Amat Rochim Barokah in Pekalongan

After the big Hari Batik celebration, I spend Thursday 3 October collecting materials for a new temporary work. Last time, in 2016, I made a temporary carpet from materials used as natural dyes for Batik. Mas Dewa asked me to make one again. I suggested to make it from natural & synthetic dyes address this subject.

We first went to visit a Canting & Cap maker who invited me the day before. I was wearing my canting earrings and he said, “These are not Pekalongan canting, I have them and even smaller then yours”. Of course I needed to see them! The small shop Amat Rochim Barokah is filled with rows of Caps, the copper stamps used to make Batik Cap. In front is a little porch were the caps are being made. Mas Mustakim welcomed us with much pride. He explained he took over the shop of his parents and that he is the third generations selling Cap & Canting. He was so happy I came and also surprised, but for me this was the first time I could actually go to a Canting & Cap maker, so happy he invited me He showed us many things, the work he prepared for the Batik Week exhibition & many kinds of canting. I bought a selection with different sprouts, I hope to use them when I am back home. He also showed the tiny canting, they are so cute!! And he gave them to me as a present! So sweet, I can’t wait to turn them into earrings. I also bought 3 copper bowl for melting the wax. Normally they made from other metals and these looked so pretty. Perfect for displaying the natural dyes during the making of my temporary work.Last but not least, I asked if he could make a Cap after a design. He explained that a small Cap takes about two weeks to make. The special order is currently in the making! Can’t wait to see the final result.


Store for Natural dyes

Next stop on Thursday was getting natural dyes. I was accompanied by Mas Lani and Miss Lutfi. Mas Lani knows all the spots when it comes to making Batik. The store was from the street till inside filled with bags, big and small, with materials for natural dye, traditional medicine and tea. Within minutes they had all the things I was looking for. The Indigo they only had as a paste. They only sell it per kilo and I didn’t want to waste it. But good to know this is easily available here.

Groupphoto at store for natural dye

Selecting dyes at Jerman

We continued to Jerman. I first laughed at the name; it was from Germany the first synthetic dyes were introduced on the Indonesian market in the 19th century. So the name Jerman for a synthetic dye store is very appropriate. After Miss Lutfi explained my plan, they discussed for several minutes; was the rice not eaten, was it laying lose on the table, and more of these questions. It made me worry about how dangerous this ‘warna’ actually is. They took forever to return with four bags of dye; blue, yellow and two types of green. The yellow was orange and the greens very similar. So we asked to switch one of the greens for red. Waiting several more minutes, we got the red and I also bought a pair of professional bright orange gloves. After lunch under a beautiful tree, we went for the last materials, rice & turmeric. The rice on the pasar and the turmeric at a special spice store. With full bags I returned to the Museum. I bought much more then needed for the work, but figured all that is left will be well used at the museum.


Dr. Maria Wronska-Friend and Kucing Frederica

On Friday 4 October was time to give a talk at Museum Batik. As part of a panel we discussed European, Chinese and Indian influence on Javanese Batik. I was honored that Dr. Maria Wronska-Friend was there for it and Kucing Frederica, the museum cat, sat next to her front row. So funny, only in Indonesia I guess. My talk went well and in the days following I had nice conversations about my research. Many agreed how the history and current Pekalongan Batik is of much importance in this research. I hope I can continue these conversations and visit in the near future all of the batikworkshops of everyone I met.

Making of ‘Natural dye vs. Synthetic dye’ at the Museum Batik booth at Batik Week

In evening I made my ‘Natural dye vs. Synthetic dye’ work. The work really turned into a performance. It was so busy and so warm. I made the natural dye part pretty fast and after a short break I put the gloves on and started the other half. The big orange gloves are of thick rubber and reached to my elbows. I was sweating so much, crowded with people filming and making photos. I think it was pretty clear the natural dye was much nicer to work with then the synthetic dyes. When I removed the gloves my hands were bright red and blue spots covered my arms. I rushed to wash them, but after several attempts my fingers were still red. It took a few more days and my nails still has some traces of it...Imagine working with this daily...


The Batikmakers from Batang

Groupphoto with everyone

Saturday it was time to launch my project in Batang. Pak William Kwan of IPI and Miss Miriam and Miss Tika of Redaya Batik organized a 10 years celebration of Batik as Unesco Heritage from the Batang Batikmakers. It was so great seeing the makers I met in 2016 and it was extra great two of my movie-stars, Ibu Rasminah and Miss Nurul, were there. My film was first on the program and to my surprise it was so quiet. It was the first time I really could return the film to the makers. And it was so great to it was looked at with so much attention. My film doesn’t show them something new, I try to show daily life of Batikmakers in it & they got that right away from the feedback I got.


The always smiling Ibu Rasminah, also in my film

Presenting Batiks from the audience

After a coffee-break Pak William gave a presentation on Batik designs found in the Batang region. It was my turned after him. I gave the same presentation as in Jakarta & Pekalongan, but most of my audience was now Batikmaker, not collector, researcher, fan or teacher. So I choose to emphasize on the Javanese batikmaker part of the story, of this re-telling. The reaction to the fact that all makers of Indo-European workshops are Javanese batikmakers was strong and they found it so great that this story is their story. A question from the audience was how many Indo-European batik entrepreneurs there actually were. I think it is about 30 or more and I am still finding new signatures. I explained still much need to be figured out about these ladies. There are here now considered as ‘Dutch’ or ‘European’, and seen as outsiders; but these ladies were either of mixed descent or married with a Dutch or European man, so they would have had a mother who taught them about Batik and other parts from Javanese culture. So this Indo-European influenced that is now seen as something very far removed from Indonesian culture, is less separate as is thought {and sometimes wished to be}. For me this re-telling is a way of addressing this shared history, but also showing that the focus is now maybe too much on the European part of it and not on the very important contribution of Javanese batikmakers who actually made all these Batiks we admire in collections worldwide. They are the ones still making this patterns today, carrying on this history within textiles and they are the ones we should return this heritage to.

Two Batikmakers showing off their Tambal Batik design

Showing my film ‘Tari Batik’

Happy Hari Batik in Pekalongan

Hari Batik, Batikworkshop in the former ‘Heerenstraat’

In the train

On Monday I headed towards Pekalongan. Every year they celebrate Hari Batik big and make a longer event with the name ‘Batik Weeks’. During this event all Batik communities join in, showing their products, new inventions and make a program with talks, music and much more. I was here in 2016 and joined in with making an Artwork at the Museum Batik. Because I was so busy with this, I couldn’t see much of the other activities. This year I was again invited and they made a full program for me which allows me to see much more of the program.
I arrived on Monday by train and was greeting by my friend Cornellius, here better known as Mas Dewa. That evening was already the first of many celebrations, so I got dressed up and headed to the Museum. They organized a celebration specifically and especially for the Batikmakers, they are the ones we should thank for this beautiful Heritage and Museum does so by making an evening like this.
The evening started at the monument Tugu Nol kilometer. The ‘KM. 0 Pekalongan’ marking is placed next to an old ‘Mijlpaal’, a milestone that is a left over marking from the Dutch. A Kris was carried from there to the museum with certain rituals along the way.
At the museum they had a band and two entertainers giving a show with songs & jokes. I was sitting at a table with important Batik entrepreneurs from the region, who explained everything to me, including all the snacks on the table. The evening continued with a quiz, presents donated by many companies could be won by answering questions about Hari Batik & Batik Weeks. I heard they were talking about me and got asked on stage. They had to guess me name and later I was asked on stage again and had to come up with some questions. This was received with a lot of jokes and laughs, mainly because I am a foreigner, but I was happy to oblige haha.

Exhibition at Museum Batik in Pekalongan

The ‘Mijlpaal’, Milestone

Flashmob by the batikmakers at Museum Batik

The next day Dewa asked me to join him to pick up Batikresearcher Maria Wronska-Friend. She would arrive in Semarang and it was wonderful chatting with her all the way back to Pekalongan. Her latest books is one of my favorites, ‘Javanese Batik to the world - Batik jawa bagi dunia’, in which she shows how Javanese batik inspired many other countries & textile traditions globally.
Back in Pekalongan, I went to check out the ‘Bol-Bolan Sarungan Batik’, a soccer match in sarong. Teams representing different companies competed wearing all sarongs. In this fun game they show that Batik can function in a sportive, relax way. It was so great to see all the football players like this.
After the match I met up with Ibu Asih, a teacher at the school in Batang which Batikmaker Nurul attends. Nurul asked me if I wanted to come to her school and tell a little of what I do. Her school teaches practical education, so how to make fashion including making Batik. Of course I want that, so it was great the meet the teachers already. We went for dinner at an old Dutch house which is turned into a restaurant. I invited Miss Nurul and her sister Miss Siti to join us. So great to see them again. I feel so happy I know these creative ladies that create such wonderful batiks. Thank you for coming!

Soccer in sarong

Dinner with Miss Siti, Miss Nurul and teacher Asih

The next day m, 2 October, was The Day, Hari Batik! And my birthday! To be here on the 10 year anniversary while turning 35 is a dream come true.
I got up early to attend the flag ceremony. I thought I would just be watching with most of the other museum-employee, but got placed between the people in formation. With commands being yelled we marched, saluted and try to stand in nice rows. It took about an hour before the actual ceremony started and we standing that whole time facing the Sun. I wanted to tough it out, but half way through the actual ceremony I started to get dizzy. Afraid I would pass out, I asked the man next to me how long it would last. He urged me to move to the back and sit down. Everyone was so worried and went like ‘its okay, its okay’. I watched the ceremony sitting on the sidewalk and was amazed to see that everyone after the ceremony joined in for aerobics! Wauw!

Flag ceremony

I took a minute to cool down inside before going to the next part of the program. When discussion my project with Mas Dewa before, I told him about my idea of returning Batik making to the famous ‘Heerenstraat’. This street was at the end of the 19th century the place were all important Batik entrepreneurs had their workshops, among them people like Indo-European Batik entrepreneur Elize van Zuylen & J. Jans. The idea was a little pop-up batikworkshop were people could join in. Mas Dewa realized the idea perfectly. The former ‘Heerenstraat’ starts at the ‘Mijlpaal’ I mentioned before. In front they put little stoves & stools.
To my surprise the Mayor and his wife joined in & many followed after. All was documented of course by many reporters of different local media and a huge audience. The Batik teacher of Museum Batik was sitting next to me, while I was tracing way to fast and impatiently a buketan motif, he actually made a portrait of me! He made it so beautiful and I feel so honored by this amazing gift!

Nitik competition at Museum Batik

After the batikworkshop I went to the University of Pekalongan. A Seminar including a talk by Maria Wronska-Friend was taking place. I made it on time and it was interesting to hear the response to her talk & what was further presented.
After lunch I returned to the Museum. A competition for professional Batikmakers was taking place. They were invited to make their own version of ‘Nitik’. The ‘Nitik’ motif is probably one of the oldest in Javanese Batik, but it is hardly being made any more. The technique is extremely time consuming. It is made by creating square dots as a motif similar to woven textiles. Believed is it originated from India and was based on imported textiles. The story also goes Batik entrepreneur, and neighbor of Von Franquemont, Catherina Carolina van Oosterom was a specialist in ‘Nitik’ and in different collection pieces are attributed to her.
The makers at the museum had 5 hours to complete their designs. A jury picked in the afternoon from all the pieces 3 winners who will get a cash- price. It was nice to see that also students joined in, I happily posed with them afterward for a group-photo.
Unfortunately I missed other parts of the program, but was happy I could celebrate my birthday in such a special way!
Thank you Cornellius & Museum Batik!

Posing with the new generation of Batikmakers, thank you for making Batik!

Jury choosing the winners

10 Tahun Hari Batik

Hieperdepiep hoera! Today we celebrate Batik is 10 years the official Unesco Intangible Heritage of Indonesia. I already started celebrating early this year, but now here on Java the celebrations have started. I already had a great opening & event at Museum Tekstil and now I will be part of the celebrations at Museum Batik in Pekalongan. You will definitely see some pictures on Social Media later!

Since 2009 Hari Batik, Batik Day, is being celebrated on Java. When I arrived last time, it was just a few days after the first time. So my ‘journey to Batik’ & my blog are also 10 years old today. 

And that’s not all, today is my 35 birthday. I feel so happy that I can celebrate my birthday surrounded by people wearing, sharing & enjoying Batik! 

To stay with my traditions, I prepared some Batik Statements in the Netherlands before I left. I took this in the bicycle parking-lot at the Central Station in my hometown Utrecht. It is the biggest bicycle parking-lot in the world. Since I started my Research Associate position at RCMC I take me bike to the station and go by train to Leiden. Often I have to park on the third floor, but I do not mind because the green floors match my green bike very well. For the photoshoot I am wearing Batik Cap I bought in 2016 in Jember at Batik Rolla. It is with classic Dutch bikes & tobacco  leaves. The entrepreneur of Batik Rolla wanted to put her own family history within the Batik, her father worked in Tobacco and her Dutch grandfather would ride a classic bike (we call ‘grandma bike’ in the Netherlands actually). The cloth I wear as a cape is a limited edition Vlisco Super Wax Print, so from Helmond in The Netherlands. It was actually a gift. The design is newly made and shows mountain-bikes going over a hilly underground. Pretty funny considering how flat the Netherlands is.  I wanted to make a statement with these two pieces for a long time. I think this statement is maybe more about addressing how we can move to a more sustainable way of living, by supporting local & handmade products and by riding a bike - I see the traffic here in Jakarta and I just fantasize how it would be if the city center was car-free, just like in my hometown Utrecht. You would be able to ride your bike safely and in fresher air. The public transport can bring you much faster to your work or home - Wouldn’t it be amazing! And of course in this dream of mine everyone is wearing real Batik, Cap or Tulis, no Fast Fashion printed textiles ‘Batik Print’!  

Have a wonderful Hari Batik! And don’t forget to share photos with me & use #batikstatement